At Long Last, Cuba

Adam Hilelly (SFS ‘21) is a guest writer for the Caravel's travel edition. The content and opinions of this piece are his and his alone. They do not reflect the opinions of the Caravel or its staff.

“From left to right: Me, my brother, and a family friend.” (Adam Hilelly)

It isn’t every day that a United States citizen has the opportunity to visit a country that almost started a nuclear war between the U.S. and the Soviet Union. And yet, here I was in Havana, Cuba, taking in the sites and scenes from which Americans had been barred for decades.

Arriving in the capital, I was stunned by the architectural grandeur of the city. I have been blessed to travel across much of Europe, and the resemblance was striking. This aesthetic similarity is unsurprising: Cuba had been a Spanish colony. The buildings were all nearly uniform in size, with bright and varied colors, which were greatly complimented by the impeccably-kept Chevrolets and Cadillacs from the 1950s. These cars were clearly there for show, but seeing them was shocking nonetheless. It felt like we had traveled through time to just before the Cuban Revolution of 1959.

This visit inevitably took a political turn when I witnessed the numerous shirts, pins, and flags with Fidel Castro and Che Guevara’s proud portraits. Once again, although these images were mostly on display to reinforce Cuba’s external image, it was jarring to see leaders who, only a few decades ago, had been the United States’ primary enemies. This historical dichotomy evaporated, however, when I drove by the U.S. embassy, opened under the Obama administration. The importance of this diplomatic engagement cannot be understated. Reopening the U.S. embassy in Cuba started a new era of relations between the two nations, including the possibility of tourism. The embassy is a tangible symbol of this diplomatic normalization.

“Che Guevara’s portrait in Revolution Square.” (Adam Hillely)

In this context, I am worried by the Trump administration’s actions toward Cuba. Recently, the administration implemented a list of conditions to visit the island. For instance, my family and I were only able to visit because we had booked a guide of the Jewish quarter of Havana. While the tour was fascinating, I could not help but feel disappointed that my family had to justify our visit beyond the mere historical significance of the country and its unbelievable beauty.

Although significant human rights abuses are still a large issue in Cuba, the Trump administration should seek to normalize relations with the country. The Cold War is over, and Cuba no longer poses a threat to the United States. Cuba can benefit greatly from increased tourism and investment, as living standards are low and economic growth is slow. If the United States wants to see the Cuban government change its practices, it must be willing to engage with it diplomatically and economically. Interdependence between the two nations can lead to greater understanding and ultimately more respect for human rights on the island nation.

Overall, I left Cuba with a mix of emotions. I was stunned by the country’s beauty, saddened by the poverty I witnessed, and cautiously optimistic about U.S.-Cuban relations. I hope to visit more than just the capital in the future, but for that to happen, there must not be a significant rollback in the progress made in the past decade.